Phosphorus in pool - Swimming Pool Help
To prevent this in the future, you need to close the pool after the water gets cold (no higher than 50ºF) and shock with chlorine (and optionally add an algaecide such as PolyQuat 60) and then open the pool in the spring before the water warms up... You need to get ahead of this growth by shocking the pool to kill the algae faster than they can grow (in spite of the phosphates) and then maintain a proper Free Chlorine (FC) level which is a minimum of around 5% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level... Never the less I was nervous and called the pool company --they told me that using the product would turn the pool cloudy for about 7 days. However, this isn't what happened in your pool if I understand that you are opening the pool after having no FC in it over the winter. I backwashed my pool after 24 hours and ran the filter for an extra 12 h. My pool is pristine now-I will know tomorrow if it helps. The problem I have is that the high phosphorous level in the pool is what is causing my chlorinator not to work--won't make chlorine from the salt. I bought 1 qt of seaclear phosphate remover and poured it in pool. I bought 1 qt of seaclear phosphate remover and poured it in pool. My pool was clear but I was having low ph, total alk, and low chlorine problems. My pool was clear but I was having low ph, total alk, and low chlorine problems. Ideally, maintaining the FC level over the winter is best, but if the pool freezes over then this may not be practical so shocking beforehand and having the water be cold to slow down bacterial growth will work. Over the course of 2 days I added ph increaser, sodium bicarb and shock per my pool store's advice. Over the course of 2 days I added ph increaser, sodium bicarb and shock per my pool store's advice. If you know that your CYA level has dropped and that this occurred when your FC was zero for some time (and it sounds like this might have been the case since you were opening your pool after it was "let go" for the winter), then you can get an... If your FC dropped to zero at any point for an extended time (at least 8 hours), then bacteria could have converted some of the CYA in the pool into ammonia and that can create a HUGE chlorine demand. I was told it could not make chlorine if the pool has high phosphorous. It has been 2 days since I used the seaclear with no change in water quality. It has been 2 days since I used the seaclear with no change in water quality. I used sea clear and the pool turned to milk. Why I don't have algae is a mystery and my pool is very clean--maybe due to the phosphorous. My pool is blueish now but VERY cloudy. My pool is blueish now but VERY cloudy. When algae (or bacteria) first grow, they may not be visible initially but they can create a large chlorine demand that is more than the chlorinator can handle. I brought a sample back the next day and was told to repeat chemicals that when ph is low sometimes water changes color. I brought a sample back the next day and was told to repeat chemicals that when ph is low sometimes water changes color. What it does is allow algae to grow faster since phosphates are an algae nutrient (as well as a nutrient for bacteria as well). My chlorinator won't work and I was told I had a very high phosphorous level. A high phosphate level does NOT prevent the chlorinator from working....